Today, the 1000 hectare Karura Forest is the largest in Kenya, set north of Nairobi's Central Business District between the Muthaiga, Gigiri, Ridgeways, Runda, Highridge and Spring Valley suburbs. Some of the offices next to the forest include UNEP, National Youth Service (NYS), National Security Intelligence Service (NSIS) and the CID (Criminal Investigative Department) headquarters.

The forest now has its own sponsors in the form of the Friends of Karura Forest, which has raised the funds to fence and develop the forest as a family centre. Nowadays, one side of the forest and the New Muthaiga section known as Sigiria are fenced, while the rest meets private residence boundaries or is bordered by roads.

Fencing has had its benefits. A recent UN report indicated that due to fencing and efforts to improve forests, there was a 20 per cent increase in forest cover in Kenya in the five years from 2005, of which nearly half was in the form of exotic plantations.

Forest cover is vital in triggering increased stabilising temperatures and cleaning air, which is particularly important in polluted environments like Nairobi.

The Friends of Karura Forest have also created 50km of trails through the city's new family forest, made easy to navigate with marked numbers.

A Walk in the Woods
Arriving at the beige and green coloured gate, blending with the trees at the Kiambu Road section of Karura Forest, not too far from Muthaiga, two security guards guide any visitor to the second entrance a few metres away, covered by trees. The security guards at the second gate issue entry tickets and give out maps and leaflets about the animals in the forest.

"Are there any snakes?" I ask the security guard. He smiles, assuring me all is well and safe. "If you get lost, give me a call," he says, giving out his phone number. Scouts have explored the area and analysed which areas have wild animals, he explains. The forest also sells beautifully designed and very clear maps for Sh100, although some visitors prefer to draw their route on a piece of paper and mark the numbers they want to follow.

The map has 3 main routes from the Kiambu Road entrance. The 4km family trail opened in 2009 and lies next to the border of the forest. The second and third trails are longer, with smaller diversions also guiding people to Wangari Maathai's memorial area, where more trees were planted.

At first, I wonder how I'll reach the other side. I'm not much of a walker, and some tackle the more than 5 kilometres walking with a baby on the back. However, my concerns vanish as soon as the trees come into sight and after eating a few snacks.

The map is important, as one could easily lose the track as the route splits into two further ahead.

The exotic trees include Makhmia Lutea, Croton Alienus, and Croton Megalocarpus or "Mukinduri", which have medicinal and ornamental properties, as well as being widely used for firewood. They represent some of the more than 20 species of local trees. As well as the trees, there are over 558 plant species, many of which hang down to make swings like in the Hollywood movie George of the Jungle.

Further along the trail, an isolated chimney comes into sight. It was used by the Cooperative Bank to burn currency until the mid 1990s, but now sits silently.

Around a few more corners, the gushing sound of a river can be heard, later crossed and covered by trees and mossed stones. It is just one of the forest's rivers that feed Nairobi inhabitants including Karura, Ruaka and Gitathuru.

Next comes a notice inviting guests to the 20 ft waterfall and Mau Mau caves. The path towards the caves is steep. Fortunately, the slopped trail of about 1km is fenced ensuring support and reducing the risk of slipping.

The trail leads to huge natural caves which were used as hideouts during the colonial days by Kikuyus fighting colonialists for their land. Plans are underway to explore the site in detail, say Friends of Karura Forest. Standing inside the caves, the air is damp and at the base of the steep slope a river forms a dramatic waterfall.

The trail takes visitors over the river on stepping stones to the site of the waterfall, which is spectacular, and the air fresh and moist. The waterfall falls onto moss on rocks, plants and fallen trees, and is becoming popular for swimming.

The trail gets its wooden fence back as it reclimbs the steep slope back to the main trail.

Even amidst all the trees, the area gets brighter as I reach an opening covered with tents for an event. It's ideal for a wedding and is also used as a camping area. Further on, there's a swampy area ideal for bird watching and picnics, with most
of Nairobi's over 600 bird species having been sighted there over time.

From afar, a signboard warning of wild animals is hung over by tall trees and an animal, perhaps an antelope, disappears into the undergrowth. It could be frightening being alone in the forest, as mobile phones occasionally lose network. But the marked trail offers comfort.

Finally, I hear the sound of cars cruising on a highway ahead and cutting right, reach another entrance, opening onto Limuru Rd. There's a sense of relief and pride on covering almost 6 km in 2½ hours.

For Kenyans entering the forest, the cost is Sh100 without the map. For non-Kenyans, the cost is Sh600 for adults and Sh200 for kids. But the feel-good factor is huge, thanks in no small part to environmentalists like Wangari Maathai who worked so hard to give us back our forests.
By Stella Kabura